Nothing says Halifax like a late-night donair or falafel sandwich enjoyed with friends at about 2 am on a downtown street corner. That might come as a surprise to outsiders who don’t realize how much the city’s culinary scene owes to Middle Eastern food. And Haligonians might also be surprised at the range and variety of Middle Eastern food available around town.
Tucked away in a strip mall just off the intersection of Robie and Young, Tarek’s is a North End lunchtime institution. Service is very casual: Pick your seat from the very random assortment of chairs in the sunny dining area, and they’ll call you when your food is ready. No need to choose between the beef and chicken shawarma (sandwich or plate), you can order a half-and-half here (and should). There’s also complimentary soup to sip while you wait.
If you’re unfamiliar with Middle Eastern Food, the MEFC at North and Agricola is a great place to start. It combines a small takeout with the grocery store equivalent of Aladdin’s cave, so you can try any number of classic dishes and then buy the ingredients to make your own. The takeaway food is inexpensive, and portions are large. Try the fatayer (meat pies) and salads, and don’t forget a few stuffed cookies for later.
You wouldn’t expect to find a Saudi Prince’s former personal chef slinging shawarma next to a Kempt Road car dealership, but that’s a for-real entry on chef Abod Sadieh’s resume. The slow-cooked mandi (lamb shank) here is memorable, and the “Syrian ravioli” (shish barak) isn’t something you eat every day. Save room for the desserts displayed in a glass case at the end of the long dining room. Try the basbousa or the cheese-filled kanafeh pastry.
Efendy’s Dresden Row space – the longtime home of fine-dining restaurant Fid – is a beautiful space with hardwood floors, exposed brick and lots of rich colour. The food, almost all of it grilled over charcoal in the open kitchen, is just as elegant. The mains are heartbreakingly good. Try the kusneme, though it might take a few visits just to make it through the selection of hot and cold mezze first.
If your taste buds were shaped by the Lebanese versions, you’ll find the Syrian take on kibbe and other Mediterranean standards at Baba Ghanouj to be subtly but enjoyably different. Located on the south end of Barrington, across from Dal’s engineering campus, the café features a spacious dining area with lots of room between tables. The food is skillfully crafted and largely vegetarian. Try the dips and flatbreads, or settle in for the buffet and enjoy a bit of everything.
No Middle Eastern roundup would be complete without Ray’s, which helped “Leban-ize” Haligonians for years at its former Scotia Square location. The restaurant is now on Akerley Blvd in Burnside, between Burnside Drive and Joe Zatzman, but the falafel sandwiches are just as good and Ray is personable as always. Oh, and there's a Bayer’s Lake ray’s location as well.